Everybody talks up coffee in Europe, cafe culture and all that. And while there are things I appreciate about cafes here (paying after you finish, sitting as long as you want, fabulous people watching), good luck finding a decent Cappuccino, if you’re into that sort of thing. Today I will profile, for you dears, my favorite cafe(terias)/granjas/etc., as well as the popular drinks in this region in Spain, and try to capture their “vibe.”
LA GRANJA is my favorite cafe in Barcelona. La Granja literally means ‘the farm’ and there are several places with this name all over Barcelona. But there is no place like this Granja, on Carrer Banys Nous in El Barri Gottic, which you will never be able to find without a knowledgeable tourguide, like me 
They seem to pride themselves on being so close to the tourist part, but with little tourist presence. Probably because they’re tucked away and there’s no sign on the door. There is one on the floor just before you walk in, but when you’re strolling tiny little streets you’re too busy looking straight ahead.
La Granja is famous for their Xocolate (that is, Chocolate in Catalán), which is served hot and thick and with a variety of other ingredients that you may desire. Xocolate is a very popular breakfast drink here, sometimes with Churros, and has also become something akin to gelato in Italy, or hotdogs in New York. Everybody that visits promises they’ll at least try it before they leave. I like the one with mint, or the one with coffee (left). Cole likes the one with Chili peppers, and Loriann likes them sin algo (right). (I think my Spanish is bad here)
They only play old American jazz music from the 40′s. It’s quiet in the morning hours (8 – 2) and then busy in the later hours (5 – 9). But its always a relaxing place to hang out, read a book, and get sick from all the sugar you ingest. Their croissants and pastries are great too.
CAFE PARIS is the kind of place you go any time. I mean that because they’re open 24 hours a day. I don’t go there very often because its in a very residential part of L’Eixample, which is expensive and not my scene, but when I have a reason to go I always make a stop because this is the dive-yest place for miles. The coffee is cheap but its pretty good, and if you can stand the loud obnoxious music they play, get some cheap greasy food while you’re at it. The busiest I’ve seen this place is on weekends around brunch, when hungover Barcelona kids come for their Patatas Bravas, or at night when there is a futbol (soccer) match on.
Here’s what I always order: a Cafe Americano, meaning espresso and water. I don’t bother with milk when I come to Cafe Paris, I like it good and strong.
Here’s a bunch of college kids watching a game. One of them spotted me! There are several TV’s on all the time in Cafe Paris, but they all turn to the sports channels at night, especially when Barça is playing. By the way, we beat Madrid on Saturday!
They also have tables outside, which is very nice in the warm weather. Of course now it’s freezing and raining so there’s none of that.
LA CLANDESTINA is a cool place to go if you need to sit down with your computer and use free wifi ( people here pronounce it wee-fee). It’s also in El Barri Gottic.
It’s open every day, and doesnt close during lunch hours, unlike almost every other establishment in this part of town (and pretty much the whole city). Their coffee is pretty good too. I always get a cafe con leche, or tea, which happens to be great here. It’s all loose leaf and they serve it in beautiful little pots with these lovely little glasses. The best thing about Clandestina, however, is that every table has a bowl of white AND brown sugar for you to use. As my dear friend Nomfundo told me once, “you need brown sugar in your Earl Grey tea to bring out the bergamot!” Well, tea snobs should hang out here.
Cafe con leche, y té con azucar marron
They play terrific music, mostly Brazilian, and a lot of travelers come here. I’ve even encountered several private English tutoring lessons take place on some of their comfortable couches. Brooklyn readers, this is the Barcelona version of Smooch cafe.
Stay tuned for: Cafe Babel, the Lillipep Cafe and bookshop, and my favorite coffee in Gràcia
I NEED to have some of that hot chocolate!